Zadar Revisited, Perković, Ante

Once upon a time, as the stories go, the scene on Kalelarga used to be the central social happening and the climax of every day. On one side of the street fancy gentlemen strolled, on the other dolled up ladies, which sounds old-fashioned nowadays, but was actually really practical, perfect for spying, observing, checking out, exchanging quick, meaningful glances.

You wouldn’t believe it, but some of that modest tradition has even survived the sexual revolution. Courting happens more slowly here, in gusts, it’s planned through ‘chance’ meetings, small allusions and a filigree strategy which lasts until the conqueror or the prey lose patience. You’ll conquer some only after you give up, and give up some after you’ve conquered them. If this happens to you in Zadar, of one thing you can be sure – Kalelarga will know before and better than you.